Between The Pubs: Nottingham

By Kate Simon

Nottingham has just launched seven Ale Trails, all named for a friend or foe of the city’s famous outlaw, Robin Hood. The month-long celebration runs until 29 August, with pin badges and T-shirts for those who complete the trails – there are even bandanas for canine companions. But what is there to do when you’re not supping? I dropped by the Midlands city to discover some interesting diversions as you go between the pubs.

Behold the fort

Whether or not you’ve been before, call by Nottingham Castle, which reopened in 2021 after a £29.4m makeover. Established by William the Conqueror in his endless quest to put down the rebellious north, some older remnants of the castle remain visible, such the Outer Gate, a rare example by Henry III. But the fort that crowns the mount, Castle Rock, today is a ducal palace (as well as the name of a local brewery), built in the 1670s and renovated in the late 19th Century after being set alight during the 1831 reform riots. The multimillion-pound transformation has resulted in a new visitor centre and a children’s playground, as well as an overhaul of the exhibition spaces and how 1,000 years of Nottingham’s history is told. Highlights include the Rebellion Gallery, which features the much-maligned Nottingham activists the Luddites, and, in the children’s area, Robin Hood Adventures, where even adults will feel compelled to have a go at the virtual stick fight. If you want to find out why the city became a world leader in lacemaking, this is where you’ll need to come. And don’t miss the temporary exhibition of landscapes by a young Thomas Gainsborough, better known for his portraiture, which runs until 13 November.

Nottingham Castle, Lenton Rd, NG1 6EL, www.nottinghamcastle.org.uk. Nearest trail pub: Fothergills, 5-7 Castle Rd (Robin Hood trail) 

Rock bottom

Nottingham Castle is also one of the places to take a subterranean tour of the sandstone caves hidden beneath this city. There’s a dedicated attraction, City of Caves, near the National Justice Museum, too. You’d assume this honeycombing of the sandstone was down to nature, yet it is thought that the caverns were dug by human hand. They’ve been used for many things including air-raid shelters in the Second World War – and brewing. The historic terrace Old Brewhouse Yard, at the base of the south side of Castle Rock, was fed by water from a tributary of the River Trent and the cool caves behind each house were used for making ale. To go below here, pop in the famous pub at the end of the terrace, Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem, which has a bar and stairs cut deep into the rock.

Nottingham Castle Cave Tours, see above. City of Caves, Garner’s Hill, NG1 1HF, www.nationaljusticemuseum.org.uk/cityofcaves/visit. Nearest trail pub: Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem, 1 Brewhouse Yard (Robin Hood trail).

Designs for living

Arrive by train and you’ll approach the city alongside the wetlands of the Attenborough Nature Reserve. But your onward journey into the centre by foot will be less easy on the eye, currently passing through a building site as the £500m transformation of the Broadmarsh Centre continues. The reimagined ruins of the 1970s shopping mall partially reclaimed by nature, by the architect Thomas Heatherwick, sounds like an intriguing centrepiece if the reports are right. For now, the architecture to explore is that created in the 19th Century by Watson Fothergill, who devoted his career to Nottingham’s streets, designing more than 100 buildings here. His work is identifiable by its references to Gothic Revival and Old English styles – or you can get a little help from the free-to-download Watson Fothergill Trail. The route takes you through the historic Lace Market area, where he couldn’t resist putting pepperpot turrets on one warehouse. It also calls by the former offices of the Nottingham Express (where we also learn the author Graham Greene worked as a cub reporter), with its elaborate round entrance tower topped by a conical spire. Above the porch, carvings of the faces of the era’s Liberal politicians hint at the editorial line.

Express Offices & Express Chambers, 17-25 Upper Parliament St, NG1 2AD. Nearest trail pub: Lillie Langtry’s, South Sherwood St (Friar Tuck trail).

Blue-sky thinking

Did you know, the original Sky Mirror by the world-renowned sculptor Anish Kapoor was commissioned for the enjoyment of the good people of Nottingham? It sits outside the Nottingham Playhouse – somewhat hemmed in by the surrounding buildings. The city also has one of the country’s leading modern art galleries, the Nottingham Contemporary. It features on the Nottingham Art Map but that handy resource is rather more useful for revealing several lesser-known venues. One of these, Surface Gallery, a not-for-profit social enterprise, is currently hosting the Nottingham Street Art Festival, until 13 August. Don’t expect a graffiti-fest, that’s largely confined to the alley behind the gallery. Within its walls, the interpretation of what makes street art has been left to the amateur and professional contributors – paintings, sculptures, photos, decorated garments and more. You’ll be pleased to know the launch events at this gallery are supported by the local brewery Pheasantry.

Surface Gallery, 16 Southwell Rd, NG1 1DL, www.surfacegallery.org. Nearest trail pub: Fox & Grapes, 21 Southwell Rd (King John trail).

He shoots, he scores

With Nottingham Forest back in the Premiership, who could pass through this city without snapping a selfie with the team’s famous former manager Brian Clough – or at least the statue of the late football legend? Or perhaps you might prefer Robin Hood? His statue (pictured) below the castle turned 70 this year.

Brian Clough statue, Old Market Square, NG1 2DT. Nearest trail pub: Lillie Langtry’s, as above. Robin Hood statue, Castle Rd, NG1 6AA. Nearest trail pub: Fothergills, as above

Get the needle

Rough Trade – there’s a brand name that could date you. With signings including Stiff Little Fingers and The Smiths, the independent record label and store was hugely influential on the punk and indie scene in the 1970s and 80s. After the project went through hard times, the label and retail businesses split, and the latter eventually opened its first UK shop outside London in Nottingham in 2014. It’s still going strong. Step inside and you’ll see the refreshing sight of young and old thumbing through the albums. Upstairs, one of the recurring events is a monthly Pots and Pints pottery workshop. For more vinyl, locals will also point you to Rob’s Records, spinning sounds for more than 30 years.

Rough Trade, 5 Broad St, NG1 3AJ, www.roughtrade.com. Nearest trail pub: The Lord Roberts, 24 Broad St (Sheriff trail). Rob’s Records, 3 Hurts Yd, NG1 6JD, www.facebook.com/robsrecordsnottingham. Nearest trail pub:  The Bell Inn, 18 Angel Row (Friar Tuck trail).

Hooked on the silver screen

Who wouldn’t want a Broadway Cinema in their town? A charity dedicated to providing access to cinema for all, as well as developing new filmmaking talent, this cinema in the trendy Hockley quarter hosts festivals and film courses and shows a huge variety of movies. The programme embraces UK and international films, past and present, too – for example High Noon and Nope are both on this month. Check out Screen 4, it’s designed by local boy made good, the fashion designer Paul Smith.

Broadway Cinema, 14-18 Broad St, NG1 3AL, www.broadway.org.uk. Nearest trail pub: The Lord Roberts, as above.

Trading places

In the shadow of the National Ice Centre (on Bolero Square – Torvill and Dean hail from Nottingham), Sneinton Market is experiencing a 21st Century revival. Vintage clothes, pet accessories, chocolatiers and gin makers, all the usual creatives have descended on this former fruit market to open shops, studios and co-working spaces. It’s also home to Neon Raptor Brewing Company. There’s been a market here since the 19th Century, but the long, low, gabled buildings date from the 1930s. They are separated by avenues, in which stalls and street-food carts pop up on market days and during occasional events and festivals.

Sneinton Market Avenues, NG1 1DW, www.sneintonmarketavenues.com. Nearest trail pub: Fox & Grapes, as above.

Inspired to find out more about the city? Go to www.itsinnottingham.com and www.visit-nottinghamshire.co.uk.