For another view of Britain, go to the dark side
By Kate Simon
So, you thought it was time to embrace the lighter nights. In fact, we’re in the middle of International Dark Sky Week (until 30 April). The event, organised by the American non-profit International Dark-Sky Association (IDA), aims to raise awareness of light pollution (rising globally by 2.2% on average each year) and how to counter its negative impact on wildlife, ecosystems and our own health. It’s also a celebration of one of the most beautiful aspects of our world, which an increasing number of us are travelling to see more clearly.
Astrotourism, as this pursuit is known, isn’t confined to chasing the Northern or Southern Lights. We're heading to places such as the North York Moors, which was named as an International Dark Sky Reserve by the IDA in 2020 for its swathes of unpolluted night sky – you can sometimes see aurora borealis from here. The Moors and the nearby Yorkshire Dales (from where Phil reported on Theakston’s new cooper earlier this week) are part of a growing network of places recognised for their stellar views on a clear night of the stars, planets and the Milky Way.
A few years ago, I stepped out on the North York Moors near Lastingham in the pitch black to consider the cosmos with an expert guide called John. Using both the naked eye and some serious astronomy equipment, we picked out the patterns of the different constellations to expand on my limited knowledge of The Plough, or, rather, Ursa Major (which was used as an eye test in ancient Persia, according to John). I also discovered a rosy dot to be Mars and learned that if you draw the shortest straight line from the North Star to the horizon you can get your compass bearings.
My edifying evening was just one of the experiences on offer as part of a local dark sky festival – which I was reporting on for The i – the next of which runs from 21 to 30 October. It’s an indication of how seriously astrotourism is being taken by the domestic travel industry.
A 2017 survey of tourism businesses in the Kielder Water and Northumberland National Park Dark Skies Park (the gold standard) revealed that it boosted the local economy by more than £25 million. Now that would warm the heart of any UK tourist authority, especially during the long and less lucrative winter months.
Consequently, the appetite for dark sky status is voracious. Exmoor, the Brecon Beacons, Snowdonia and the South Downs are National Parks that double as International Dark Sky Reserves, and Cranborne Chase was also named one in 2019. There are more dark sky places to explore, from West Penwith in Cornwall to North Ronaldsay in Orkney. Check out the IDA’s map here. Among the latest areas going for global recognition as dark sky zones are the Isle of Wight and the Clwydian Range and Dee Valley AONB in North Wales.
Light pollution is a growing problem – in the UK, it's only two years since Parliament set up a cross-party committee to try to put it on a legislative par with noise pollution. Yet it’s one to which solutions can be quickly implemented. Dark sky sites have a role to play and an enjoyable one at that. Best of all, you don’t need to be a billionaire for this kind of space tourism.
Phil’s Beer Notes
Kate started and finished her tour of the night sky at The Blacksmiths Arms in Lastingham, a 17th-century longhouse where you can find local cask ales, usually including Theakston’s Old Peculier. While you’re in the North York Moors don’t miss the chance to drop into Brass Castle Brewery’s Taphouse in Malton for some of the best in modern cask and craft beers.
The multiple award-winning Durham Ox at Crayke is one of the country’s most famous pubs, but that hasn’t stopped it being a great local with Yorkshire ales from Black Sheep and Timothy Taylor. For a local brew with a view try the Golden Lion at Osmotherley, while the New Inn at Cropton is home to the Great Yorkshire Brewery.
Photo: Byland Abbey by night in the North York Moors National Park © Steve Bell NYMNPA