Hang out the flags, these are Pembrokeshire's prize beaches
By Kate Simon
Pembrokeshire will be hoping to confirm a healthy haul of Blue Flags for its beaches when, in the next few weeks, the Foundation for Environmental Education (FEE) announces which shores can fly the prestigious eco-symbol in 2022.
The environmental award, now in its 35th year, indicates clean and safe water and recognises the all-round experience and accessibility of beaches, marinas and tour operators in 50 countries across the world. Wales has more of these flags per mile than anywhere else in the UK.
Seven Green Coast Awards are also up for renewal here. These recognise beautiful, untouched beaches that meet high environmental standards but don’t have the infrastructure necessary for a Blue Flag.
Both awards are administered in these parts by Keep Wales Tidy, which has pledged to maintain and gain more of these coveted gongs. However, the schemes have been criticised by Surfers Against Sewage (SAS), the influential environmental pressure group, which is not so convinced that water quality is really being maintained around all the flagpoles. SAS keeps tabs on water quality in real time with its SAS Safer Seas & Rivers Service, which is available as a free app.
Currently, Pembrokeshire’s Blue Flag beaches can be found at Amroth, Newgale, Saundersfoot, Dale, Whitesands, Coppet Hall, Tenby North, Tenby South, Tenby Castle, Poppit Sands and Broad Haven. The Green Coast Awards are held by Abereiddy, Penally, Caerfai, Druidston, West Angle Bay, Manorbier, and Freshwater East.
Visit Pembrokeshire tell me Tenby North has not been entered for a Blue Flag this year because the water quality is deemed good but not excellent. Some readers might wonder why Barafundle Bay Beach, often rated one of the best stretches of sand in the world, doesn’t hold a Green Coast Award – it seems the beach gets enough attention already.
Sadly, one familiar sight will be missing from Pembrokeshire’s beaches this year – Café Môr’s food truck at another cracking beach, Freshwater West. You had to get there early to avoid the lengthy queue for its delicious hot and cold crab and lobster rolls, dressed in Welsh butter mixed with laver seaweed. (The rustic fries were irresistible, too, sprinkled with Mermaid’s confetti – dried seaweed and sea salt.)
All is not lost, though. Café Môr has moved to new permanent premises behind the Blue Flag beach at West Angle. The café is also on the Wales Coast Path, the first trail to follow a whole country’s coastline, which opened on 5 May, 2012 (it will connect to the new England’s Coast Path, which I wrote about last week). For its 10th birthday celebrations, 20 new walking itineraries have been created, including two that touch Pembrokeshire – Cardigan to Moylegrove and the St David’s and St Non’s Loop.
Local British Beer Breaks subscriber Isabel Lewis recommends another section of the Wales Coast Path, across the clifftops near St Davids, from the Blue Flag beach at Whitesands to the tiny harbour of Porthclais. On the approach to St Justinian, seals and their pups can be seen gambolling in the surf below from August to November, and, further on, the path overlooks the turbulent strait between Ramsay Island and the mainland. Here the sea crashes on a reef of rocks known as the Bitches and Whelps, an obstacle course for fearless fans of coasteering and a spectacular sight for witnesses on dry land.
But the highlight of this walk, says Isabel, is where it rounds the headland to reveal, on a clear day, the whole of St Brides Bay. And from here, while you're admiring the view, you can also tick off no less than four of Pembrokeshire’s award-winning beaches.
Phil’s Beer Notes
St Davids Old Farmhouse Brewery, run by actual farmers, opens the doors on its modern brewhouse for special events, and launches brewery tours in August. The tap room at Bluestone Brewing, also on a working farm, in the heart of North Pembrokeshire, is open to visitors Wednesdays to Saturdays. The newly launched Tap & Tan is a collaboration between Tenby Brewing and local foodie people at Feast, promising craft beers and barbecue cooking. For a more traditional pint, the unspoilt Cresselly Arms, on the Cresswell River near Pembroke, serves a house beer from local brewer Caffle and Worthington’s by the jug.
Read Phil’s feature about legendary Pembrokeshire pubs Bessie’s and Tafarn Sinc, ‘A good pint with no frills’.
Photo: Whitesands Bay © Shutterstock